Fog began to fall covering the mountain range Annapurna III and Gangapurna. Nothing else looks except perfect white. The three of us decided to continue leaving for the summit. “We don’t need to force ourselves,” said Jörg, “we have saved one day in Manang, today we can just walk one village to Letdar.” At this height, the village is increasingly rare and far apart. Gunsang has almost reached four thousand meters, already far higher than Mount Semeru. The trees had disappeared, changing grass plants. The Newar people are nowhere to be seen, only Tibetans, Tamangs, and Gurung – all strong mountain people, the raw material of the famous Ghurka forces throughout the world. We continue to climb. It’s still less than 1500 meters high to reach the top of Thorung La.
Actually I’m not too worried about the symptoms of altitude sickness, because I’m used to the severity of nature in Tibet. However, since leaving Gunsang, I felt a little dizzy and feverish, plus a cough with phlegm and a blocked nose. According to the map brought by Jörg, the next destination, Letdar Hamlet, is only an hour’s drive from Gunsang. One hour, certainly not too much torture, we thought. But it is indeed too naive to equate our crawling which drags the land to the walking standards of Nepalese people who like flying. We need at least five hours to reach Letdar. Before Letdar, there was another village called Yak Kharka. Weird name. Maybe it’s because here are a lot of yaks. I remember Nef who had never seen yak but had eaten his meat on a steak plate. Even in this village, Nef is famous. “O … you are from Indonesia,” said a local Tamang man, working side by side as a porter, “yesterday there were Indonesians too, looking for porters in Manang. I help find it. You know him?” Nef was confused when looking for a porter who wanted to be invited to Jomsom.
Since suddenly coming from high Humde, his body is still not fully adapted to high ground. His head was still heavy, and now had to carry a large backpack to the top of the snow up there. The problem is, in Manang, not many people want to. Even if there is a price, it is relatively expensive. But it seems, our Indonesian friends managed to find the person he was looking for, and had gone ahead of me. Letdar, at an altitude of 4200 meters, has become another world. Cold wrapped in mist. Resident stone houses lined up. We decided to rest in this hamlet. Jörg and Oi Lye have thick jackets. I, who lacked preparation, only clad in university sweaters and jackets. Winter gloves and hats really help. The rest, I have nothing else. Dizziness, shivering, and feverishness. Already a little longer to reach the high peak, the challenge is even more severe. “There is no headache?” Asked Shri Gurung, a porter, translator and guide to a group of Israeli tourists. He was able to carry three backpacks weighing a total of forty kilograms on his shoulders, through the up and down hills. I shook my head. Not a headache, just a little dizzy.
I can only smile wryly. But at least we become friends. Shri Gurung has considered me as his own brother, because of my appearance which resembles the Mongoloid Gurung people. He called me Gurung Bhai – Gurung Brother. Shri Gurung brought three Israeli tourists. These Caucasian tourists, unlike our group, never bid and are always ready to pay whatever the owner of the accommodation asks. Shri Gurung also gets a bonus splash from the owner of the accommodation who is happy to get rich guests. “You are lucky, in Letdar you can still get free accommodation,” he praised, “But after this, Thorung Pedi and High Camp, all lodging is expensive.
There were originally no villages there, only innkeepers could not let go of huge profits because there were no rivals. But you don’t tell ya to my guest if the prices here are still negotiable. ” In this cold and high place, it’s easy to become tired and sleepy. Throughout the foggy afternoon, I spent time just lying on a hard bed. In less than half an hour, I have been awakened by the cries of people out there. I saw a group of men dragging large black creatures while shouting in the valley of the cliff edge. Dogs bark nonstop, like rejoicing at a party. “These villagers are religious Buddhists,” Shri Gurung said, “They are vegetarian for life. Not only do they not hurt animals, they always follow the instructions of religion. Earlier, there were two yak fighting. One dies.
These people, following the teachings of Buddhism, dragged the dead dead bodies of yak into the valley, to become a meal of birds of prey. ” Tibetan Buddhists do not bury their bodies after they die. The bodies of Tibetans are placed on top of high mountains, to be eaten by birds of prey. The core of his teaching is to dedicate himself to nature – even though the spirit has left the body but can still feed the hungry birds. “However, those starving dogs who were also starving kept coming into the valley, wanting to enjoy the yak meat. Finally, instead of being eaten by dogs, yak corpses were dragged back to the village, to the courtyard of the residents’ house, “Shri Gurung explained as long as the fuss just happened.